VERSAILLES, France — At an Olympics of unrivaled beauty, you figure there couldn’t be a more impressive view than the Eiffel Tower striking its ravishing pose above a temporary beach volleyball stadium. Then you venture west about 40 minutes to the Palace of Versailles, and you think your eyes are spoiled for life.
The gardens there are currently serving as a resplendent host to equestrian. Soon, modern pentathlon will marvel over the scenic hospitality of Versailles. The greatest competition at the Paris Olympics doesn’t involve athletes. The venues are fighting to steal scenes, turning French architecture into the pageant of all pageants.
“We were expecting something extraordinary, but not as much as this,” French eventing rider Nicolas Touzaint said after he first experienced the site and overall atmosphere at Versailles. “It’s quite incredible. I’m so impressed.”
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End of carouselJust about any athlete at any of the 15 venues could rejoice in similar fashion. The Olympics are known for stunning stadiums. Among the many are the Bird’s Nest during the 2008 Beijing Games, Olympiastadion during the 1972 Munich Games and Los Angeles Memorial Coliseum in 1932 and 1984. But in recent times, these structures have underscored the greed and excess of this costly event. Nations were duped into spending billions to construct buildings with short life spans. The eternal Panathenaic Stadium in Greece isn’t often the model in this gimme culture. Scams have no room for vision and sustainability.
With Olympic host cities now aiming to be smart and fiscally responsible, Paris has set a standard for stylish simplicity. It didn’t need a bunch of new structures to make an impression. For centuries, the city and region have been full of architectural jewels. To make a grand statement, the area just had to show off its natural beauty. There was one goal: Stay out of the way of perfection. If some Olympics have turned the host into a mere accessory, Paris is using the Games to accessorize itself. There’s more synergy here between event and location than at any of the seven Olympics I’ve attended.
“It’s really to honor our country in the most beautiful way,” said Tony Estanguet, president of Paris 2024 and a former French canoeist.
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In the first few days here, I made sure to watch archery, beach volleyball, equestrian and fencing. I’ve never begun an Olympics with archery, beach volleyball, equestrian and fencing. That’s not a sports quartet of conversation starters, but there were greater rewards.
Esplanade des Invalides is the stage for archery, as well as the marathon finish and portions of cycling events. The tomb of Napoleon Bonaparte is nearby. Louis XIV commissioned the Hotel des Invalides to be built in the late 17th century as a hospital and retirement home for war veterans.
End of carouselAnd the fencing competition is at the Grand Palais, the most stunning indoor venue of all, a 124-year-old cathedral that Chanel often uses during Fashion Week. It’s a massive palace of iron and steel, with a mesmerizing glass roof. Before every match, the competitors march down a daunting staircase, looking like royalty descending to greet the masses at a party, before dueling in the nave.
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On Sunday afternoon, I watched tennis at the iconic Roland Garros for the first time, but by nighttime, the Grand Palais made me almost forget about it. There is no ugly backdrop at these Olympics. Everywhere, you gaze in disbelief that sweaty competition can look so artistic.
“Most places you go to watch sports, you have to do both — watch your games and go be a tourist,” said Tara McRae, who’s visiting from Australia. “There’s no separation here. I’m amazed wherever I go.”
French fencer Auriane Mallo-Breton won a silver medal in women’s épée before the home crowd. After every point she scored, fans stomped on the bleachers, creating a rumble that made it seem as though the crowd was about to vault toward the high glass ceiling. The atmosphere managed to be electric and stately.
“To live it myself and to experience it in front of a crowd that had been behind me all day, it was incredible,” Mallo-Breton said.
The Olympics don’t feel as transactional here. It’s not just up to the athletes to bring money-pit buildings to life. The word “Olympic stage” is used a lot to talk about what it means to compete in this environment, but let’s be honest: At most Olympics, it’s just a television soundstage made special because athletes fight with all they have to make it to the podium. Put the Olympic rings anywhere, and it feels like a spectacle. But this time, there is character to pair with the stakes.
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Only the most provincial natives can’t feed off this energy. Some locals are annoyed that the Games have overtaken nearly every wonderful view in Paris. But to Estanguet, the temporary inconvenience is worth the chance to celebrate the city.
“We can’t do it without some disruption,” Estanguet said. “We can’t do it without some restrictions. We tried to anticipate these restrictions, and we communicated them a long time in advance.”
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Although the final tab isn’t known, Paris 2024 has indicated it may get through this with one of the most cost-effective Olympics in a long time. According to multiple reports, the organizers may avoid exceeding $10 billion in expenses. In 2012, the London Games cost nearly twice as much. In 2016, the Rio de Janeiro Games exceeded $13 billion. Organizers of the 2020 Tokyo Olympics, forced to move to 2021 because of the coronavirus pandemic, were thrilled to announce they came in at just less than $14 billion.
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By leaning into its timeless architecture, Paris had just three major construction bills: a $1.6 billion Olympic Village, a $190 million Aquatics Centre and a $150 million venue for gymnastics and badminton. Those are still mind-boggling financial commitments to attract the Olympics and Paralympics for essentially a month. But it’s an improvement. And it’s an inspiration for future Games to think further about cost-saving measures.
Still, there’s only one Paris, where art and sport can coexist so seamlessly. There are more venues to see here, more opportunities for jaws to descend. For future Olympics, the bar is higher than the Grand Palais ceiling.
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